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The least demanding aristocrat in the garden.
Water deeply every week or two through the first two summers to establish, then back off to a deep monthly soak — or less in clay soils. Overwatering is the only common way to hurt an olive: soggy roots invite disease and dull the silver in the foliage. Sharp drainage is non-negotiable.
Prune in late winter, before flowering. The goal is an open, light-filled center — remove crossing branches, water sprouts, and basal suckers, and let the sculptural structure show. Never shear an olive like a hedge; it erases the very character you bought.
Olives prefer a lean diet. A modest nitrogen application in early spring is plenty for landscape trees; over-fed olives grow soft, leafy, and fruit-heavy. Mature specimens in decent soil often need nothing at all.
Black scale and olive knot are the usual suspects: control scale with horticultural oil, and prevent knot by pruning only in dry weather with clean tools. If fruit drop on paving is a concern, ask us about fruit-management sprays timed to bloom.
Planting, irrigation, and aftercare — one crew, one call.